Understanding Casing Leather

 

 

 

 

 

What exactly does Casing mean?

 

Casing simply means adding water  to vegetable-tanned leather so it’s easier to work with.

You case leather when you want to:

·         Cut designs with a swivel knife

·         Stamp or tool

·         Form, emboss or mould leather

·         Skive (thin) leather 

 

Veg-tan leather absorbs water easily. The water softens the fibres so your tools work properly and leave clean, crisp marks. 

 

Why correct casing matters

If leather is:

·       Too wet → stamps look mushy and flat

·       Too dry → cuts don’t open and stamps look weak

The goal is damp, not soaked.

 

Traditional Casing (slow but reliable)

Step-by-step:

1.    Fully submerge the leather in clean water

2.    Leave it until bubbles stop (air is leaving the leather)

3.    Take it out and let excess water drip off

4.    Put it in a plastic bag, squeeze the air out, seal it

5.    Let it rest for a few hours or overnight

This lets moisture spread evenly through the leather

 

Quick Casing Method (fast & practical) (This is the method I prefer & use)

This is what many leatherworkers use day-to-day.

How it works:

·       Instead of soaking the leather, you spray it with water (Misting spray bottles are the most effective)

Step-by-step:

1.    Use a spray bottle with clean water

2.    Spray the grain side well (wetter than you think at first)

3.    Let it sit and start drying

4.    Tool when the color of the leather returns to normal

Because you didn’t soak it, it reaches working moisture much faster.

 

Adjusting moisture while tooling

One big advantage of the spray method is control.

·     If it feels too dry → light spray

·     If it feels too wet → wait a few minutes

 

Different tools like different moisture levels:

·     Carving & beveling → slightly drier for crisp lines

·     Shading → a bit more moisture for smoother impressions

·     Final detail cuts → light re-spray helps tools glide cleanly

No need to overthink it. Simply pay attention to how the leather reacts. 

 

When is it ready to tool?

Let the leather sit out and start drying.

Watch for:

·       The colour becoming lighter again (closer to dry leather)

·       It still feels cool and slightly damp

 

Simple test (thumbnail test):

·       Press your thumbnail into the grain side

You want:

o   A clean impression, not spongy

o   The mark to turn slightly darker than the leather

 If cased leather:

·       Feels mushy → its too wet

·       Won’t hold a mark → its too dry

When it feels firm but damp, its ready to tool.

 

Tip: If your project is going to take a few days or weeks, don't let it dry out.  When finished for the day, seal it in plastic (zip lock bags work well for this) and  pop  in the fridge until you are ready to continue tooling.

 

Thick leather (like saddle skirting)

For very thick leather 6mm plus;

·       Do a quick dunk in water

·       Remove straight away

·       Maintain moisture with a spray bottle while working

No long soaking needed.

 

Important beginner tips

·       Draw designs on dry leather . Wet leather makes pencil marks fuzzy

·       If your project is taped on the back to stop stretching, avoid soaking. Spray only the grain side

·       Every leather is different. Different tannages and thicknesses will react differently

 

Casing isn’t just for tooling

You’ll also need to case leather for:

·       Forming and moulding

·       Embossing

If your tooling isn’t working properly, moisture is often the problem.

 

Beginner takeaway

·       Casing = adding water

·       Aim for damp, not wet

·       Start simple: spray, wait, test

·       Let the leather tell you when it’s ready